Before I could tip the sea doo on its side all liquids have to be removed. Anything not bolted down is also removed to keep the sea doo as light as possible.
As you can see from these images, this Sea doo was in rough shape. Before recoating with gel coat I had to fill in any exposed glass.
All areas that were not removed will have to be covered and taped up.
These images show the black gel coat after spraying 2 coats.
As you can see, I did not remove all scratches since its the bottom of the sea doo is cosmetically not important.
I kept the tape line tight to the bottom plate and bagged the blower.
These images show the finish after wet sanding. With enough gel coat sprayed onto the surface you should be able to remove most of the orange peel finish and get a smooth surface.
After the bottom was completed I laid down the sea doo onto a thick piece of foam and propped the sides so it wouldn't tip left or right. The surface must be cleaned and all stickers removed in order to respray with gel coat.
Some components cannot be removed which can make the respray difficult but not impossible.
As you can see with this picture I had alot of cleaning to do.
This picture shows the colour chosen and some of the taping required.
Since the seat covers the engine it wasn't necessary to spray where the seat clips in. Down inside where the feet go can be difficult to spray. It is important to turn down the pressure on the gun and take your time.
This photo clearly shows how thick the gel coat is applied.
This is after wet sanding and some of the tape removed.
If enough gel coat is applied you won't have to worry about the under colour bleeding through and changing the applied colour.
Back end turned out perfect and is ready for padding.
The sea doo now looks great! After the seat is redone of course. This job took 3 weeks to complete including the hood painting. A good portion of that time was dedicated to curing since the gel coat needs 24hrs before it can be sanded.